Embroidery Threads

Embroidery though is an art; it also needs the right combination of colours & type of thread to give the desired look. The embroidery threads are quite different from the sewing threads, as a result silicone spray is not used on embroidery thread, which was a traditional method used on sewing thread. Care needs to be taken for proper storage of embroidery threads. It is advisable to store your thread at room temperature and in a dry place. Embroidery threads tend to become brittle and dry due to cold during the winter; while in summer months or when the humidity is high, thread can split due to the moisture in the air. Varieties of threads (Rayon, Polyester, Matt, Metallic, Fire Resistant, Wool-Blended etc) exist for different uses. Let us discuss a few of these.

• Rayon or Viscose: Viscose, or rayon as it is also known, is the classic of all embroidery threads & my personal favourite. These are made from treated fibers from sustainable trees or plants. Viscose is the most popular embroidery thread worldwide. Around 80% of all embroideries are made with Viscose threads. Designers love it because of its natural glossy finish, machinists love it because the flexibility of the viscose and high tensile strength guarantees high production and fewer thread breaks. Viscose threads can be laid in every embroidery direction and prevents thread looping. They are beautifully soft but with a high tensile strength wet and dry, so perfect for all types of embroidery. Viscose is extremely resistant and colour fast.
• Polyester: Polyester embroidery threads are used for a variety of reasons, maybe for technical reasons in the end use, for the special multi and fluorescent colours or for the amazing look! Polyester threads are typically used for embroideries on industrial textiles that are to be washed extremely frequently as the yarn will be heavily stressed. It also has high resistance to chlorine, bleaches and artificial whiteners this is why it is often recommended on work wear.
• MATT: For certain special embroideries, Matt and lightfast embroidery threads, are used which brings a new sensation to the perception of colour and highlights. Due to the unique ceramic core material this embroidery thread reflects the true colours intensity with enormous colouring power. Due to the highest possible dyeing methods, Matt threads have an unmatched overall rating to fastness to light – i.e. that the colours remain and don't fade as easily as others do. As such they are easy to wash and care for and has high fastness to light & can therefore be used in all sectors. Due to the absence of a shiny effect, the embroideries realized with Matt threads show an unmatched clarity. Matt threads allows even more creativity in the development of embroidery designs, as now it is possible to combine matt and shiny threads, achieving amazing contrasts.
• Metallic: Metallic Threads meet the highest requirements regarding the variety of colours, thread counts – and of course quality. Embroidery made with metallic threads is sophisticated, lavish and precious, which means a wide choice of threads is a necessity. Because they are more difficult to work with than the Viscose or Polyester threads, metallic threads must also be of perfect quality to ensure optimum use on machines. Usually, metallic threads are available in a wide variety of Gold, Silver and precious metals, and other dazzling Jewel tones, multi-colours and lovely subtle elegant shades in different ranges!
• Wool Blend: Wool blend embroidery thread is typically made of 50% wool and 50% Acrylic. These are perfect for high speed computerized embroidery, over-locking and decorative stitching. Colours range from vibrant reds, greens, blues and yellows, through to soft country tones with multi hues, for outstanding special effects.
• Fire Resistant: These threads do not catch fire but sparks trends. They are usually flame and heat resistant embroidery threads which are commonly used in motor sport clothing, work-wear and protective clothing, embroidering seat cushions of airplanes and wherever special safety aspects are essential.

Understanding Thread Thickness Denier was the first methodology for measuring threads, later came the decitex system. Moving on, the current Metric system was introduced. Any or all systems may be used in the trade. Confusion arises because although the rationale makes sense, logic is different and for some, very confusing when the exact opposite formula applies to the denier/decitex and metric systems. With metric numbering systems for thread, the opposite applies - the thicker the thread, the lower the metric number. So a number 12 thread is thicker than a number 40 weight. Using the metric system, all you really need to remember for embroidery and sewing thread is: 'the higher the number the finer the thread, the lower the number the thicker the thread'.

Use of embroidery on Salwar Kameez

Both - the dupatta and kameez are usually decorated with heavy embroidery, needlework, mirrors and even precious stones and using festive colors, to provide elegance to salwar kameez. The most common Design Patterns are made on Salwar Kameez with different types of work on it like Embroidery work, Patch work, Floral work, Lace work, and Bead work. Embroidery is the most common of them all. The embroidered kameez salwar can be divided into two categories –

1. Hand Embroidered Salwar Kameez: Hand embroidered salwar kameez is a result of the efforts done by the craftsmen. In such type of Salwar Kameez the embroidery work is not embellished with threads only. There are many decorative items that can be embroidered along with the thread like seeppy, stars, beads, moti, gungroo, laces, stones and jewels etc.

2. Machine Embroidered Salwar Kameez: In machine embroidered salwar kameez, the main component of embroidery is threads of different colors and fabric like cotton, polyester, silk, silver, gold etc. Machine embroidery has limitation but it has better look than the hand embroidered Salwar Kameez material.

Numerous embroidery styles have been used in India since long time, some of them are listed here

• Aari Bharat Embroidery: Aari Bharat Embroidery is also known as Mochi embroidery. Mochi literally means “shoemaker”. The mochis work on silk cloth called “Mashru”, net or canvas using a needle called “Aar” and silk thread. They work without any pre-decided design or drawing and conceptualize the design as they work. They work wonders as their fingers skillfully trace out all forms such as leaves, fruits, flowers, animals and human figures. Mostly concentrated in the areas of Kutch and Kathiawar, Aari Bharat is slowly reviving, as the work is much in demand all across India and abroad.
• Ahir Bharat Embroidery: Ahir embroidery is famous for its flowing style making extensive use of motifs of peacocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants and flowers. The designs are first drawn free hand and then embroidered. The name comes from the Ahir tribe, which is found in Bhuj, Anjar and Mandvi regions in Gujarat . This style is akin to mochi or aari embroidery. Objects commonly embroidered are bags and wall hangings. Decorative strips, called Sankias or Barsankias are also embroidered in this style and are pinned on each side of the main doorway of a house. They are linked with a Toran above it. Clothing adorned with shisha or mirror work is worn on festivals or ceremonial occasions.
• Banjara Embroidery : Banjara is the term used for gypsies or the nomadic tribes of India. They have a distinctive embroidery style that is a sublime mix of many cultures. Their clothes are bright, colourful, and heavily decorated with elaborate mirror and beadwork. They also make extensive use of shells, ivory beads, and colorful threads. The banjaras are fond of wearing huge skirts called ghagras that are brightly colored and heavily embellished. Their accessories include heavy bangles and anklets. The stitching that is used for these skirts (ghagras), blouses and the men folk's jackets is now used to decorate bags, belts, bed spreads wall hangings and living room decors.
• Banni Embroidery : This trend originated in the vast stretch of semi-desert land called Banni. It embodies the Lohanas of Khavda and the Jats, Mutwas, Harijans etc. of Banni villages. Banni embroidery, that also comes from the stable of Kutchi embroidery of Gujarat , employs ornate, petite designs in bright flashy colors, which is deemed the most stunning and magnificent among the different types of Kachchi embroidery. This art incorporates the shisha or mirror work. The glass is cut into different shapes and sizes and the embroidery revolves around it. The Garari Jat community does extremely minute mirror embroidery with threads of different hues and colors. Mirror shapes are cut out of a vase blown out by a mouth pipe.
• Bidri Embroidery : Bidri originated in a place called Bidar near Hyderabad . Bidri essentially means silver inlay on black colored metal. The style was replicated on cloth as well. The stitches are akin to Zardozi work. Bidri comprises casting, engraving, inlaying and oxidizing. The designs are chiseled, after which pure silver wire or sheet (gold in some cases) is driven into the creases and the surface smoothened. The pieces are warmed slowly and a solution of sal ammoniac and earth is poured on it. This imparts a jet-black color. Oil is rubbed on the piece to lock in the black coating. Fanatically protected by practitioners, Bidri epitomizes the lifestyles of Sufis, artistic values of the Mughals and the passion of warriors to beautify their weapons.
• ChikanKari Embroidery : Chikanari typically represents the art form of the city of Lucknow. Of Persian origin, it means a cloth fashioned with intricate needlework. Chikankari is a light style and very well suited to hot climatic conditions. It combines comfort and aesthetic value. Light chikan saris and salwar suits are common summer wear for women while men wear chikan kurtas. The source of Chikan ornamentation in Chikankari is Mughal. Similar designs and patterns can be seen in Mughal inspired buildings such as the Taj Mahal. This form was closely associated with the Nawabs and other royal families. Over the years, it filtered down and is today the most common and popular embroidery form.
• Kantha Embroidery : The beauty of this style lies in its extreme simplicity. The stitch is a simple running stitch done in such a way that it gives a unique quilted look. An art form of Bengal and synonymous with embroidered quilt, Kantha also stands for dorukha, which implies recycling of old and worn cloth. Kantha in Sanskrit means rags. Precious silks and expensive clothes on becoming old were piled into layers and stitched together. Some legends draw parallels with a lady's self-expression. The real kantha describes a story, the emotions and the life of the artist. The motifs range from flowers, animals, geometric patterns or even gods and goddesses.
• Kathi Embroidery : In this type silk or satin is the preferred base cloth while the thread used is either cotton or silk floss. Predominantly a form of embroidery from Gujarat, it is quite different from the other forms of embroidery from Gujarat. It has a strong influence of Kathi art in its patterns, which are predominantly inclusive of animal motifs, flowers and peacocks. Whatever space is left is filled with leaves and buds. The use of mirror work is quite strong, especially in the making of the center of flowers, eyes of the birds or flower representations. A strikingly distinguishable feature of this form of embroidery is its unusual technique of chain stitch embroidery combining with appliqué work. This is further enhanced by mirror-like insertions.
• Kashmiri Embroidery : Kashmiri embroidery, also known as Kashida, has definitely been inspired by the beautiful natural surroundings of Kashmir. What is significant of this style is that the whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles. Wool or cotton is the base cloth used. Most often they are in shades of white or some similar light shade. At times pastel colors are also used. Care is taken to ensure that the color shades blend into the background. Kashmiri embroidery is very skillfully executed by way of a single stitch. Sozni embroidery, papier-mache embroidery, and ari or hook embroidery are individual styles of Kashmiri embroidery.
• Kasuti Embroidery : This age-old form of embroidery is from the state of Karnataka. What is particularly significant about this form is that it is simply done by counting the threads of the warp and weft with the designs traced or implanted as outlines. There are essentially four types of kasuti embroidery. They are Neyge Kasuti, Murgi Kasuti, Menthya Kasuti and Gavanthi Kasuti. As a traditional form, it is specially done on IIkai sarees and blouse pieces. It boasts nearly seven hundred designs under different categories. This form of embroidery lends an exquisite effect and touch to the soft furnishings. Most designs have a religious touch and are derived from temple structures.
• Mirror Embroidery : The craft of mirror work, also known as Sheeshadar, is closely associated with embroidery. In this art, sewing mirror discs are neatly intricated onto the fabric. This art form is carried out in combination with other forms of embroidery in order to add more effects to the designs. The incorporation of the sheesha or the mirror is supposedly one of the most attractive features in Indian embroidery, as it considerably enhances the general effect of the pattern. The glass is first cut into different shapes before it is embroidered into the fabric. Very, very miniscule embroidery is carried out on heavily encrusted yoke with white thread, mingled with red, orange, blue and green. They are specially used for the eyes of birds and the center of flowers.
• Phulkari Embroidery : The literal translation of Phulkari is flower craft and this art of embroidery is related to the state of Punjab. Baugh, which literally means garden, is a Phulkari wherein the entire facade is splendidly ornamented by a continuous design through skillful handling of darning. Chobes is another type of Phulkari Embroidery in which the edges alone are ornamented with the center being left plain. The beauty of Phulkari is enhanced by the color of the ground material. The thread used is invariably pure silk. The uniqueness of the Phulkari embroidery is that its long short darning stitches are worked on the wrong side of the cloth. However, the pattern takes shape on the right side.
• Rabari Embroidery : Rabari embroidery covers a wide range of garments, bags, household decorations and animal trappings. It signifies and highlights important events, rites and values in life. Rabari embroidery on children's clothing reflects the primacy of children. The mirrors, which are embellished are said to protect children from evil spirits inhabiting their world. Rabari embroidery is a pictographic representation and symbolic of mythology, beliefs, culture and life. In this art form glass mirrors are used in various shapes. They can be round, rhomboid, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak shaped. Rabari embroidery is a language of expression. The specific motifs each have a name and meaning. The unique aspect of this art form is that the embroidery style changes with the imagination and spontaneity of the artist.
• Soof Embroidery : Soof embroidery involves the use of geometric patterns and is a type of counted thread embroidery. Lehar or wave is one of the most common patterns. This art form is represented by highly stylized motifs. Just before the needle is inserted the weave threads are counted. The important thing to note is that in this embroidery the stitch is worked from the back of the material. This hand embroidery is very painstaking. Without drawing the motifs the artisan imagines the design in the mind and works it out geometrically in the reverse. Most soof patterns generally begin with a triangle. Soof embroidery is full of rhythmic pattern motifs, which depict part of the artisan's lives apart from infinite variations of peacocks. These variations of peacocks along with various mandalas are supposed to focus psychic energies.
• Zardozi Embroidery: Zardozi embroidery is imperial metal embroidery. It has its own relevance in history as the costume of the royalty. Zardozi embroidery is rich with intricately woven patterns in gold and silver. It is further studded with pearls and precious stones to enhance the exquisiteness of rich and glowing silk, velvet and brocade. Zardozi embroidered garments are very popular and well known for their adeptness and have to be very delicately handled. The design is first traced on rich fabrics like silk, satin velvet, etc. After stretching the fabric on a wooden frame the embroidery work begins. Individually the Zardozi element is incorporated into the pattern by being picked up by a needle, which is then pushed into the fabric. They are excellent as elegant eveningwear and, without doubt, fit for any ceremonial wear.

Dupattas

Have you seen the way a really attractive woman sometimes leaves or enters a room; with a swish and a swirl of her beautiful dupatta? That colourful swathe of cloth thrown around the shoulders can sometimes be the most important element in a salwar-kameez or churidar-kurta ensemble. Dupattas do add a certain something to the whole look of an ethnic ensemble, especially when it comes to bridal dupattas.

The Dupatta is an unavoidable accessory along with salwar kameez. Indian fashion dupatta cannot be considered as a traditional wear any more since it has found a place in the arena of fashion world. Dupatta is known by different names like chunari (in Gujarat), leharia (in Rajasthan), dhathu (in Himachal Pradesh) and the chador (in Assam). If chickan-kari is the offering of Lucknow’s craftsmen to the field of fashion, kantha work finds roots in West Bengal. North Indian ladies drape this attire over their heads while they go to temples to offer prayers. But it is not a custom among South Indians. Even today rural women cover their head with a shawl called chunaria showing respect towards elders. The main advantage of Dupatta is that it can fit well with most of the wardrobes, irrespective of classic ethnic or trendy Indo western style. Actually ethnic costumes will never be complete without a dupatta.

The role of a Dupatta is to add grace to the garment. They are available in all bright and radiant colors. They look more attractive with beautiful beads and mirror work on them. When the word Dupattas is mentioned the first name that enters our mind is Lal Dupattas of Rajasthan. These Rajasthani dupattas, red in color, are simply enchanting especially when worn on white color salwar suits. The elegant tie and die prints, known as Laharia provide the magic charm to the Lal Dupattas. Heavy bridal dupattas have never gone out of fashion. Bridal dupattas usually have embroidery works done on them using golden threads. Dupattas worn on religious functions and very special occasions like chunni charana which is a very special wedding ceremony among the Punjabi community; are also specially designed.

But it is in the traditional standing dupatta of Hyderabad that the bridal dupatta has come into its full beauty. Mughal Empress Noor Jehan called Persian and Turkish craftsmen to India in the 17th century, and they passed the secret art of crafting royal dupatta dresses only to their descendants. Later the begums of Nizams of Deccan adapted the original Mughal style, especially in the form of khada dupattas (The khada dupatta is a traditional outfit composed of a kurta, chooridaar and six-yard dupatta, and is traditionally worn by Hyderabad brides).

Draping styles of dupatta have evolved paving ways for new fashion trends. Many ladies drape the dupatta over both shoulders with the central portion covering the chest. Some will fold it neatly lengthwise and attire it only on one shoulder. Modern stylish ladies let their gorgeous dupattas hang around their arms. The dupatta has come a long way from traditional fashion to the fashionable scarf. For the great ultimate feel of Indian dress and western style fashion, it is complete magic of this gorgeous accessory.

From the pristine white cotton dupattas of yore to flowing chiffons from France, this piece of garment has become more than just a cover and cultural more. Dupatta is both a fashion statement and an adornment. Over the years it has undergone many transformations and changes. What began as a shoulder mantle or wrap for protection against the sun and cold soon found other uses as well. Dupatta, or a long piece of cloth to wrap round the head, face and body, was useful in allowing movement and at the same time concealed the body. Then came a veritable explosion of designs and colours.

Dupatta is ubiquitous; it knows no hierarchy and is worn by girls and women of all ages, class and status. However, the only difference is in the material used and the embellishment, if any. Dupattas are made of all varieties of fabrics, natural and man-made. They are made of coarse and loosely woven cottons and the finest muslins, of delicate chiffons and shimmering silks. They are woven using intricate weaving and colouring methods such as ikats, jamawars, jamdanis, etc., or embroidered with silks of many hues and gold and silver threads, beads, sequins, shells, spangles and more.

The designs, techniques and methods are innumerable and modified and changed only according to the maker’s skills and the wearer’s fancy. From the harsh and barren desert have come the most intricate and colourful fabric decorating and dyeing techniques from block printing to tie-and-dye and bandhinis. These dupattas are prepared in myriads of colours and then often starched and gathered into tiny pleats whilst held taut by toes to become chunna hua dupattas. These ripple and move to reveal the different colours with each movement. The original kalamkari, sanganeri and Mughal designs amongst many others derived from far and wide and were brought to the subcontinent by waves of travelers and invaders. Along with its many designs and fabrics, dupatta has as many meanings and uses. It is as inextricably intertwined with our joys and sorrows, our celebrations and various rites of passage in our lives as it is with the clothes we wear.

There are different dupattas worn at different occasions, such as the various wedding ceremonies, from the yellow and green of the mayoon and mehndi, to the glorious red of the bridal dress. While on serious occasions such as funerals and religious gatherings, the more sober and unadorned shades such as white and black are preferred. Dupattas are also used in as a shield of honour and protector of modesty. No woman would willingly remove it from her head and face. Its forceful removal is taken as the height of insult to the woman and her family.

Fabrics of all hues, colours and designs are being used. Designs considered ethnic and indigenous to their regions of origin are increasingly popular and fashionable all over the world and finding expression in dupattas worn by girls in cities and urban centres.

Usually readymade salwar sets include a matching dupatta also. Suit material available for stitching also has a matching dupatta attached to it. In addition several textile shops separately sell dupattas in various fabrics like thin cotton, silk, crepe, georgette, nylon etc with or without prints and designs.

Kurtas & Kurtis

Kurtas

Kurta is a Persian word adopted in Urdu & other languages, meaning ‘a collarless shirt’. It is a traditional type of dress worn generally by the people of Indian sub-continents. Kurta used to be one of the main clothing for the natives of Asian countries like India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Afghanistan. People used to wear it on different occasions like any festival or any fair or any family function. Kurta had different looks earlier such as sherwani, pathan-dress, golband and many more. Earlier kurta was worn by males only, but gradually it has become the most sought after clothing for ladies.

The kurta as the name suggests is typically without collars. However, over periods of time kurtas have started being designed with collars as well, the most common among them are as in sherwani and achkans which are either U-shaped or V-shaped around the neck. The traditional kurtas used in the earlier eras by the common men came without buttons, but as kurtas evolved some of them have buttons. The upper front portion is embroidered with threads of silk, cotton, gold, silver, or other material, upon any woven fabric, leather or paper.

Kurta is, without any doubt, a traditional costume originated in India. It is similar to a long shirt stretching up to the knees. Kurta could be an ideal top for jeans, trousers, salwars, or a pajama which should match and compliment well with the kurta in style and color. Kurtas also fit well with all regular Western bottom wears. These are suitable for extremely unique works like embroidery, stones, beads mirror etc… They are available in different lengths, sizes, designs and fabrics.

Kurtas have been a craze among fashionable young Indian women. Some are enchanting with fine unique embroidery work in pretty designs on them. Due to its smart look ladies love to wear it for a casual family get-together in the lounge or simply to participate in an afternoon tea with their friends outside in a park or a garden.

Embroidery, printed designs, embellishments with beads, laces, mirrors etc. also enhance the overall look of these fashionable kurtas. Beads and mirror work is often used to beautify these kurtas. The fabric used in Kurtas mainly depends upon the seasons. Summer Kurtas are made of cotton fibers or thin silk threads which are very light weight and soft in addition to making the wearer feel comfortable. Winter kurtas are made of thicker fabric such as wool or khadi silk, a thick, coarse, hand spun and hand-woven mixed with other fibers. Winter Kurtas provide style, fashion along with protection from cold.

The common fabrics used in Ladies Kurti are: Cotton, Silk, Wool, Georgette, Chiffon, Khadi silk, Satin, and Crepe.

Ladies kurta can be of following types depending on the fabric covering of the arm:

• Full sleeved kurta: This type of garment each lady would like to have it in her wardrobe. They can be worn by females of all age groups starting from kids, teenagers to working women. It gives a unique look to you. Innumerable designs and styles are available for full sleeved kurtas. Kurtas heavily embroidered around collars, upper front and wrist are best suited for wedding ceremonies or parties. These Kurtas are used in all seasons.
• Sleeveless kurta: Best suited for summers. The light weight and soft sleeveless kurtas are the most sought after clothing during hot weather. It is available with or without collars. The collared kurtas are designed with fine threads of gold, silk, cotton or other materials. Summer kurtas have chikan embroidery around the edges and upper front. As mostly used in summers the fabric must soak sweat, should be soft to skin and allow air to pass through.
• Half sleeved kurta: Absolutely perfect for offices, parties, marketing, travel. This kurta covers the arm upto elbow length and thus is indicative of an energetic approach to your attitude.

Cotton kurtas, available in many colors and styles with embroidery or beads, sequin and mirror works on them, are too comfortable to wear in summer and winter. Hand-crafted Indian kurtas are very comfortable and convenient for all seasons, especially during summer and winter. They look beautiful and radiant with varying textures and shades.

Kurti

The Kurti is one of the biggest fashion formulae created by fashion pundits. Indian Kurti (or the Tunic) is the ideal for year around wear. All you need to ensure is the right fabric, the right color, the right silhouette, and the right surface design at the right time. It can be worn anytime anywhere as it suits every age and season.

Unlike the kurta, Kurti comes across as the ideal Spring-and-Summer wear. With their `quick-fix' solutions, fabrics such as viscose georgette, polyester georgette and crepe blends form a perfect setting for rainy days. A bright color comprising dark hues that conceal stained and soiled spots are ideal. The length of the kurtis varies between mid-thigh levels and a little above the knee. Kurtis generally have a front opening.

The style could be `tight-fit' or `semi-fit'. Opt for slits that are not too long (between 10 inches to 12 inches). Cotton kurtis are suited to wear over jeans, skirts and capris. Printed kurtis, made out of fabrics like cotton, crepe, georgette, silk etc could be paired with formal pants and skirts. These are essentially any party wears with attractive embroidery, mirror, beads, zari, stones or sequin works on them.

Kurtis can be with cap sleeves, short sleeves or three-quarter sleeves. The traditional Salwar suits best with a kurti as it offers more fabric volume. Kurtis are also worn with slim-fit pants (ankle length, capris) to create an element of interest. Complete the look with dupattas, scarves or stoles. Teens and young ladies look wonderful and fabulous in an elegant kurti worn over jeans. The main advantage of this costume is, in it, one can do brisk walking, cycling and even sprints.

Salwar Kameez and fashion

As an outfit, salwar kameez is appropriate for any age and the rich tradition of Indian embroidery made it fit for any occasion as well. Women of any culture or region can add to her beauty by the gorgeous style and feminine potential of Salwar-Kameez. Indian salwar kameez has thus become one of the most flourishing and popular attire. Colleges going young girls in particular are fashion conscious.

Chiffons are in great demand in the summers, and so is cotton. Most contemporary salwar kameez may not have the traditional hem. The hem may be cut diagonally or given a non-traditional shape. Lighter shades including pastels in georgettes are contemporary. Prints and checks in fawn, pink, and yellow make a cool collection of contemporary outfits.

Contemporary Salwar Kameez:

The contemporary salwar kameez is far removed from the traditional salwar kameez in fashion and design. The contemporary outfit follows the latest trends set by the fashion industry. The Bollywood film industry in India in many ways is a trendsetter.

Embroidered Salwar Kameez:

Embroidery has always been an inseparable part of the salwar kameez. Most salwar kameez meant for formal and semi-formal occasions are treated with an elaborate dose of embroidery.

Most common among Embroidered Salwar Kameez the hand Embroidered Salwar Kameez with booti work. This type of Embroidered Salwar Kameez consists of simple patterns representing plants, leaves and flowers. Chikankari salwar kameez too have flowery patterns, but they are typically designed with predominant white threadwork. Mirror work comprises small mirror chips that are embroidered on the salwar kameez. These mirror chips form the hub around which the embroidery pattern develops. Moti work consists of small rounded beads stitched to the fabric as part of the embroidery pattern. A number of colored beads are used to create a colorful pattern.

Other forms of embroidery used on the salwar kameez are: cufdana work, dori work, dubka work, gota patti , kasab work, katha work, kundan work, parsi work, patch work, resham embroidery, sequins work, sippy work, sitara work, stone work, thread work, zardozi work, and zari work. With such a fascinating range of embroidery to choose from one could build a substantial wardrobe of embroidered salwar kameez .

Printed Salwar Kameez:

The fascination for salwar kameez is an unending process for those who get used to this apparel style. The variety that includes embroidered works and an array of printed styles binds the wearer to the salwar kameez. Printed salwar kameez are used as both semi-formal and casual wear. Prints too, like embroidery, come in various print types.

The bandhej print salwar kameez comprises the use of the tie and dye method of printing. The areas of the fabric that are not to be dyed in a particular color are tied with a string. The fabric then is dipped in a heated cauldron of liquid dye. Block prints are a popular form of printing. A pattern is designed on a wooden block, and then using vegetable or synthetic colors these are stamped on the fabric. It is also known as hand printing. Geometric prints consist of geometric designs like triangles, squares or rectangles or a collage of these shapes. Like the bandhej print, lehriya print too originated in Rajasthan (India).

Abstract prints represent the modern style where abstract art designs are used. Computers have made the abstract art form more popular, for these designs can be made on the computer with ease using various color combinations. The other print styles in use are the flower print, golden print, kalamkari print, and the weaving print styles.

Salwar Kameez & Fabrics

Numerous fabrics ranging from Cotton, Chiffon and even Jute have been used for Salwar Kameez. However, it is Cotton which has remained the most popular fabric due to its comfort and versatility, especially in apparel items, in the hot season amongst the Indian women community. It is comfortable to wear, durable, cool, sweat absorbing, light weight, multi color dyed, multi shaded etc.

There are many types of cotton salwar kameez that can be found in the market

• Pure Cotton Salwar Kameez: This is made of seed-pod of the plant of cotton, silk fibre in their raw state from cotton plant. It is pure cotton and made from raw cotton and after implementing the procedures it becomes cotton fabric. It has a feature of shrinking on first wash. Nice and cool to wear, good for hot season and does not effect on the skin like other synthetic clothes. There is no match for cotton kameez salwar in respect of comfort, designs and cost.
• Khadi Cotton Salwar Kameez: khadi is fine, viscose-blended cotton. There are so many qualities in khadi cotton. Khadi cotton has a big role in designer's cotton salwar kameez these days. Some myth are that cotton is out of age and fashion. The khadi cotton kameez salwar is a symbol of simplicity.
• Mix Cotton Salwar Kameez: This is not pure cotton. It has ratio of 50% cotton and 50% synthetic cloth. This treatment gives stiffness to the cloth and there is no shrinkage on first wash. The compositions with cotton may be with tericott, wool, silk or any other fabric.
• Other Cotton Salwar Kameez: There are so many names that are famous in the cotton cloth market like South Cotton, Ahmedabad Cotton, Crush Cotton, Rajasthani Cotton etc. In these types of cottons there is undoubted difference which depends upon the proportion to form the cotton fabric but basically the cotton has one origin.

Styles of Salwar-Kameez

From time to time, new names and styles were introduced in the Indian salwar-kameez market. Salwar kameez seems to present unlimited design possibilities. Though, the traditional version is still most popular, variations in styles have always persisted. The length, cut, or name of both salwar and kameez changes each year and even in every season.

Traditional Indian Salwar Kameez has specific design. Kameez is normally found long up to knee, lengthy sleeves, medium neck and low back depth. Salwar is normally wide from top with pleats and with drawstring. Salwar has big room at thigh and calf area for easy wearing. It has big bottom area for ease. Further the style and shapes of Indian Salwar Kameez varies as –

• Short kameez length with short sleeves
• Short Kameez with sleeveless
• Different neck styles
• Different back designs and back depth

Salwar Kameez comes in many different styles such as

• Traditional style salwar kameez which has innumerable variations.
• Parallel/Trouser style salwar suits with a short Kurta style top,
• Churidar style salwar kameez, pajamas and
• Afghani style salwar kameez

Types of some of the most in-vogue salwar kameez:

1. Traditional salwar kameez: Traditional Salwar Kameez or ‘Punjabi suit’ as it is popularly called is the usual combination of a salwar, a kameez and a corresponding long scarf. The kameez of this suit comes below the knees and generally it is fitted in the bust area but gradually looses from the hips down to the knee. As traditional salwar kameez is very suitable for casual wear, it's also known as the casual wear salwar kameez.
2. Party Wear salwar kameez: To make the suit fit for any celebration or festival, party wear salwar kameez uses gorgeous fabrics - silk, crepe, georgette, satin etc. Decorated (both in dupatta and kameez) with heavy embroidery, needlework, mirrors and even precious stones and using festive colors, party wear salwar kameez looks elegant and wonderful.
3. Churidar salwar kameez: Traditional Churidar salwar kameez name is very popular and famous amongst the Indian community. Traditional churidar salwar is the bottom part as the other option of the traditional salwar keeping different style. It is sleek in look and has leg shape fitting with lesser amount of thigh and upper space as compared to Indian traditional salwar. At bottom it has small hole with hooks or thread to close the bottom at the ankle. A churidar type salwar is comparatively more tight-fitting at the hips and thighs and also has a good deal of extra length so that it can be wrinkled up around the ankles. These creases resemble churis and the salwar is thus named after it. Indian traditional churidar is longer than traditional salwar for spiral shape look at the bottom.
4. Patiala Salwar kameez: Patiala Salwar kameez is similar to Indian traditional Salwar kameez except that Patiala salwar has more pleats and big fall comes on wearing at back. Kameez is same as it is for Indian traditional salwar. Patiala has big room at top with too many pleats for comfort and different look. Patiala salwar comes with drawstring same as that in a traditional salwar.
5. Parallel salwar kameez: Parallel Salwar Kameez is an important part of Indian Kameez Salwar & is very popular amongst the teenagers not only in India but in the whole world. Parallel is like pant with narrow front belt, back elastic and side chain or full elastic depending upon clients requirements. Parallel Salwar kameez has wide room at upper and wide bottom like pant.
6. Boot Cut: Boot-cut salwar has a slightly different shape, it is like parallel pant but at knee portion it has tight fitting from knee to bottom as compared to Indian salwar and parallel pant. Kameez with boot cut can also be made that has the wide shape from waist area and upper part is similar to the traditional kameez.
7. Printed salwar kameez: Sundry printing is done on different fabrics like chiffon, georgette, cotton etc which gives printed salwar kameez a bright, vibrant look. Most of the time the kameez and the dupatta are printed and the salwar is either in contrast or matching color. The entire set may be printed as well. A variation of the Printed Salwar Kameez is the ‘Embroidered Salwar Kameez’ wherein Embroidery is done on the fabric.
8. Indo-Western salwar kameez: Indo-Western Salwar kameez is the upshot of the fusion of Indian tradition and international trends aiming to give this oriental garment a universal flavor. This suit may have three pieces or can be found without dupatta as well. The kurta is usually short - above the knee or just below the hips. It can be sleeveless or with thin straps or with short sleeves. The salwar of this suit is like a parallel loose trouser with a slightly flared look.
9. Short Kurta pant: The latest innovation is short Kurta pant, is a variant of the Indo-western salwar kameez which combines very short Kurta and parallel pant instead of salwar, this suit is preferable as an office or formal wear.

Salwar Kameez – history & description

With over 1 billion citizens, India is the second most populous nation in the world. It is impossible to speak of any one Indian culture, although there are deep cultural continuities that tie its people together. India has been known to have wonderful dresses and costumes specially Salwar Kameez. Though the majority of Indian women wear traditional costumes, the men in India can be found in more conventional western clothing.

It is believed to originate with the Turkic-Iranian horse riding steppe peoples of Central Asia. A number of these tribes converted to Islam. Starting in the 12th century, a series of raids and invasions established Islamic Turkic-Iranian rule -- the Delhi sultanate and later the Moghul empire -- over much of what is now northern India and Pakistan. Fashion followed rule, and the salwar suit become popular throughout the area. It now has no association with Islam, being worn by women of many religions. Traditionally, Salwar Kameez was worn in Punjab, but is now worn almost everywhere, particularly among the younger generations.

Indian dressing styles are marked by many variations, both religious and regional with a wide choice of textures and styles. Although the sari is the predominant form of dress for Indian women, it is not the only one. Other Indian garments include the following:

• Choli - worn with a sari. The choli is a tight-fitting top with a bare midriff and an open back. It has a rounded neckline; some have ties at the back neck and across the shoulder blades. It originally served as a bust support. Now often replaced with commercial blouses.
• Ghagra - a pleated or gathered skirt reaching to mid-shin/ankle length. May contain 20-30 yards of fabric. Worn with a choli or kameez.
• Salwar - very long trousers with a band at the ankle. Fullness falls in folds and conceals shape of legs. Worn with a Kameez, a long tunic, slightly flared at the hip with slits at the sides, reaches the knees.
• Orhna - long scarf worn over the kameez. May be used to cover the head or face.

A popular, comfortable and convenient dress is the salwar kameez (also spelled shalwar kameez and shalwar qamiz) or churidar kurta; is a traditional dress worn by both women and men in South Asia. Salvars or salwars or shalvars are loose pyjama-like trousers which taper slightly towards the ankles, while the churidar is a tight-fitting trouser which gathers at the ankles. These gathers at the ankles look like bangles (churis) and hence the name. A dupatta generally completes the ensemble. The kameez or the kurta is a knee-length flowing tunic worn over a salwar or churidar. The side seams (known as the chaak) are left open below the waist-line, which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement.

Salwar Kameez helps keep cool on those hot sweltering days as it doesn't cling to the body. The salwar kameez spares you the mental agony you may experience while on a date that your panty line is showing - usually the case with hip-hugging low-waisters. Nor do you have to face the humiliation of a 'free show' when the wind runs away with your skirt.