Friday, August 22, 2008

Embroidery Threads

Embroidery though is an art; it also needs the right combination of colours & type of thread to give the desired look. The embroidery threads are quite different from the sewing threads, as a result silicone spray is not used on embroidery thread, which was a traditional method used on sewing thread. Care needs to be taken for proper storage of embroidery threads. It is advisable to store your thread at room temperature and in a dry place. Embroidery threads tend to become brittle and dry due to cold during the winter; while in summer months or when the humidity is high, thread can split due to the moisture in the air. Varieties of threads (Rayon, Polyester, Matt, Metallic, Fire Resistant, Wool-Blended etc) exist for different uses. Let us discuss a few of these.

  • Rayon or Viscose: Viscose, or rayon as it is also known, is the classic of all embroidery threads & my personal favourite. These are made from treated fibers from sustainable trees or plants. Viscose is the most popular embroidery thread worldwide. Around 80% of all embroideries are made with Viscose threads. Designers love it because of its natural glossy finish, machinists love it because the flexibility of the viscose and high tensile strength guarantees high production and fewer thread breaks. Viscose threads can be laid in every embroidery direction and prevents thread looping. They are beautifully soft but with a high tensile strength wet and dry, so perfect for all types of embroidery. Viscose is extremely resistant and colour fast.
  • Polyester: Polyester embroidery threads are used for a variety of reasons, maybe for technical reasons in the end use, for the special multi and fluorescent colours or for the amazing look! Polyester threads are typically used for embroideries on industrial textiles that are to be washed extremely frequently as the yarn will be heavily stressed. It also has high resistance to chlorine, bleaches and artificial whiteners this is why it is often recommended on work wear.
  • MATT: For certain special embroideries, Matt and lightfast embroidery threads, are used which brings a new sensation to the perception of colour and highlights. Due to the unique ceramic core material this embroidery thread reflects the true colours intensity with enormous colouring power. Due to the highest possible dyeing methods, Matt threads have an unmatched overall rating to fastness to light – i.e. that the colours remain and don't fade as easily as others do. As such they are easy to wash and care for and has high fastness to light & can therefore be used in all sectors. Due to the absence of a shiny effect, the embroideries realized with Matt threads show an unmatched clarity. Matt threads allows even more creativity in the development of embroidery designs, as now it is possible to combine matt and shiny threads, achieving amazing contrasts.
  • Metallic: Metallic Threads meet the highest requirements regarding the variety of colours, thread counts – and of course quality. Embroidery made with metallic threads is sophisticated, lavish and precious, which means a wide choice of threads is a necessity. Because they are more difficult to work with than the Viscose or Polyester threads, metallic threads must also be of perfect quality to ensure optimum use on machines. Usually, metallic threads are available in a wide variety of Gold, Silver and precious metals, and other dazzling Jewel tones, multi-colours and lovely subtle elegant shades in different ranges!
  • Wool Blend: Wool blend embroidery thread is typically made of 50% wool and 50% Acrylic. These are perfect for high speed computerized embroidery, over-locking and decorative stitching. Colours range from vibrant reds, greens, blues and yellows, through to soft country tones with multi hues, for outstanding special effects.
  • Fire Resistant: These threads do not catch fire but sparks trends. They are usually flame and heat resistant embroidery threads which are commonly used in motor sport clothing, work-wear and protective clothing, embroidering seat cushions of airplanes and wherever special safety aspects are essential.

Understanding Thread Thickness Denier was the first methodology for measuring threads, later came the decitex system. Moving on, the current Metric system was introduced. Any or all systems may be used in the trade. Confusion arises because although the rationale makes sense, logic is different and for some, very confusing when the exact opposite formula applies to the denier/decitex and metric systems. With metric numbering systems for thread, the opposite applies - the thicker the thread, the lower the metric number. So a number 12 thread is thicker than a number 40 weight. Using the metric system, all you really need to remember for embroidery and sewing thread is: 'the higher the number the finer the thread, the lower the number the thicker the thread'.

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